Azelaic acid is a powerhouse active that calms inflammation, brightens skin, and supports your skin’s natural defense—so your skin can function at its best.
What is Azelaic Acid (AA)?
Azelaic Acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid found in grains such as barley, wheat, and rye. In skincare, it is a multi-tasking active that helps treat acne, rosacea, pigmentation, and uneven skin texture.
It is considered a gentle yet effective alternative to stronger actives like retinoids or hydroquinone.
Benefits of Azelaic Acid
Azelaic Acid improves skin through multiple mechanisms:
1. Anti-Acne Action
- Kills acne-causing bacteria (Propionibacterium acnes)
- Reduces inflammation and redness associated with breakouts
2. Brightening & Pigmentation Control
- Inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production
- Reduces dark spots, post-acne marks, and hyperpigmentation
3. Anti-Inflammatory
- Calms rosacea, redness, and sensitive skin reactions
- Improves overall skin comfort
4. Keratolytic Effect
- Gently exfoliates dead skin cells
- Prevents clogged pores and improves texture
Azelaic Acid in Skincare Products
Azelaic Acid is available in:
- Serums
- Creams and gels
- Spot treatments
Common concentrations:
- 10%→ Over the counter for mild acne and pigmentation
- 15–20%→ Prescription-strength for acne, rosacea, or stubborn pigmentation
How to Use Azelaic Acid
- Apply after cleansing andbefore moisturizer
- Start every alternate day, then gradually build to daily use
- Can be usedAM and/or PM (PM preferred in sensitive skin) depending on tolerance
Compatibility with Other Actives
Azelaic Acid can be paired with:
- Niacinamide
- Hyaluronic acid
- Ceramides
💡 Tip: Avoid layering with strong acids or retinoids initially if you have very sensitive skin.
Is Azelaic Acid Safe for Acne-Prone or Sensitive Skin?
YES!
- Acne-prone skin:Highly recommended; reduces breakouts without clogging pores
- Sensitive skin & rosacea:Gentle, anti-inflammatory, and usually well-tolerated
Pregnancy & Breastfeeding Safety
Azelaic Acid is considered safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding:
- No known risks to mother or baby when applied topically
- A safe alternative to actives like retinoids or hydroquinone
Side Effects of Azelaic Acid
- Mild tingling, redness, or irritation may occur when first introduced; usually resolves with gradual use
- Always wear sunscreen while using azelaic acid, as it can increase sun sensitivity
Dr. Suruchi-Recommended Azelaic Acid Products
1. The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
- Key Ingredients:Azelaic Acid
- Free from:Alcohol, oils, fragrance
- Full Ingredients:Aqua (Water), Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Dimethicone, Azelaic Acid, Dimethicone/Bis-Isobutyl Ppg-20 Crosspolymer, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polysilicone-11, Isohexadecane, Tocopherol, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Isoceteth-20, Polysorbate 60, Triethanolamine, Ethoxydiglycol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin
2. Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster
- Key Ingredients:Azelaic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Adenosine
- Free from:Alcohol, oils, fragrance
- Full Ingredients:Water, Azelaic Acid, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Dimethicone, Salicylic Acid, Adenosine, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract, Allantoin, Bisabolol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Xanthan Gum, Sclerotium Gum, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol
3. Anua Aelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum
- Key ingredient: Azelaic acid
- Full ingredients: Water, Azelaic Acid, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Dipropylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Panthenol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Betaine Salicylate, Glycerin, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Ethylhexylglycerin, Allantoin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Sodium Hyaluronate, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Niacinamide, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Beta-Glucan, Centella Asiatica Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Root Extract, Madecassoside, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Madecassic Acid, Squalane, Zinc PCA, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ceramide NP
Final Takeaway
Azelaic Acid is a multi-functional, safe, and versatile skincare active suitable for: Acne and post-acne marks Hyperpigmentation and dark spots Rosacea and redness Sensitive or reactive skin With consistent use, Azelaic Acid can reduce breakouts, brighten skin, and calm inflammation, making it a valuable addition to any skincare routine.
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Dr. Suruchi Vohra
Hi! I’m Dr. Suruchi Vohra, an MD Dermatologist with around 12 years of experience in Singapore and the United Arab Emirates (U.A.E.) treating skin, hair and nail conditions across all age groups and various skin tones.
Comments
annabrown
Good Blog!
cmsmasters
Thanks.