Retinoids are among the most researched and effective ingredients in Dermatology. From acne control to anti-aging, they are considered the gold standard for long-term skin health when used correctly. What Are Retinoids? Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives that work by increasing skin cell turnover and regulating multiple cellular functions in the skin. They act on specific retinoic acid …
Retinoids are among the most researched and effective ingredients in Dermatology. From acne control to anti-aging, they are considered the gold standard for long-term skin health when used correctly.
What Are Retinoids?
Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives that work by increasing skin cell turnover and regulating multiple cellular functions in the skin. They act on specific retinoic acid receptors in the skin, influencing collagen production, pigmentation, acne formation, and skin texture.
All retinoids eventually convert into retinoic acid, the active form that the skin can use.
Types of Retinoids (From Mild to Strong)
1.Retinyl Palmitate (OTC)
Retinyl palmitate is a gentle, fat-soluble ester of retinol used in skincare to reduce wrinkles, improve texture, and boost collagen production. It converts to retinol in the skin, making it less irritating than other retinoids.
2.Retinol (OTC)
- Requires two-step conversion to active form which is retinoic acid
- Gentler and beginner-friendly
- Common in anti-aging products
3.Retinaldehyde (Retinal)
- Converts faster than retinol
- More effective with less irritation than tretinoin
- Good balance of efficacy and tolerability
4. Retinoic Acid (Prescription)
Includes:
- Tretinoin
- Adapalene
- Tazarotene
These act directly on the skin without conversion and are therefore more potent.
Benefits of Retinoid Acids
1. Acne Treatment
- Normalizes pore cell turnover
- Prevents comedones (blackheads & whiteheads)
- Reduces inflammatory acne
- Enhances penetration of other acne treatments
2. Anti-Aging
- Stimulates collagen production
- Reduces fine lines and wrinkles
- Improves skin firmness and elasticity
3. Pigmentation & Texture
- Fades post-acne marks
- Improves uneven skin tone
- Smoothens rough texture
4. Overall Skin Health
- Strengthens epidermal renewal
- Improves long-term skin resilience
How to Use Retinoid Acids Correctly
When to Use
- Night-time only, as retinoids are light-sensitive
How to Apply
- Cleanse and pat skin completely dry
- Apply apea-sized amount for the entire face
- Avoid eyelids, corners of the nose, and lips
- Follow with a moisturizer
Frequency
- Start2–3 times per week
- Gradually increase as tolerance builds
- Daily use only if well tolerated
Common Side Effects
During the first 4–6 weeks, some users may experience:
- Dryness
- Mild peeling
- Redness
- Temporary purging
This phase is normal and usually settles with proper moisturization and gradual use.
What Not to Mix with Retinoids
✘ AHAs / BHAs / PHAs
✘ Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)
✘ Benzoyl Peroxide (unless advised by a dermatologist)
These can be alternated on different days instead.
Importance of Sunscreen
Retinoids increase skin sensitivity to sunlight.
Daily broad-spectrum sunscreen (SPF 30 or higher) is mandatory, even indoors.
Retinoids & Sensitive Skin
- Start withlower strengths
- Use the “sandwich method” (moisturizer → retinoid → moisturizer)
- Avoid over-cleansing or exfoliation
- Consult a dermatologist before starting
Pregnancy & Breastfeeding Safety
⚠️ Retinoids are contraindicated in pregnancy.
- Avoid all prescription and OTC retinoids
- Use pregnancy-safe alternatives like azelaic acid or niacinamide
- Breastfeeding mothers should consult a dermatologist before use.
Dr. Suruchi-Recommended Retinoic acids
1. The VICHY liftactiv retinol specialist serum
- Key Ingredients:Retinol, Probiotic fractions, peptides
- Free from:Alcohol, oils, fragrance
Full Ingredients: AQUA / WATER / EAU – GLYCERIN – PENTYLENE GLYCOL – ISONONYL – ISONONANOATE – ALCOHOL DENAT. – DICAPRYLYL ETHER – GLYCINE SOJA OIL / – SOYBEAN OIL – PROPYLENE GLYCOL – PEG-6 – CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC GLYCERIDES – HYDROLYZED – RICE PROTEIN – HYDROXYACETOPHENONE – PALMITOYL TETRAPEPTIDE-7 – PALMITOYL – TRIPEPTIDE-1 – PENTAERYTHRITYL – TETRA-DI-T- BUTYL HYDROXYHYDROCINNAMATE – SODIUMHYALURONATE – SODIUMHYDROXIDE – TRISODIUMETHYLENEDIAMINEDISUCCINATE – VITREOSCILLA FERMENT – RETINOL – DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE – AMMONIUM – POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE – BUTYLENE – GLYCOL – CAPRYLYL GLYCOL – CARBOMER – GLYCERYL ISOSTEARATE – POLYSORB ATE 20 – PPG-6-DECYLTETRADECETH-30 – SODIUM – AQUA / WATER / EAU – GLYCERIN – PENTYLENE GLYCOL – ISONONYL – ISONONANOATE – ALCOHOL DENAT. – DICAPRYLYL ETHER – GLYCINE SOJA OIL / – SOYBEAN OIL – PROPYLENE GLYCOL – PEG-6 – CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC GLYCERIDES – HYDROLYZED – RICE PROTEIN – HYDROXYACETOPHENONE – PALMITOYL TETRAPEPTIDE-7 – PALMITOYL – TRIPEPTIDE-1 – PENTAERYTHRITYL – TETRA-DI-T- BUTYL HYDROXYHYDROCINNAMATE – SODIUMHYALURONATE – SODIUMHYDROXIDE – TRISODIUMETHYLENEDIAMINEDISUCCINATE – VITREOSCILLA FERMENT – RETINOL – DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE – AMMONIUM – POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE – BUTYLENE – GLYCOL – CAPRYLYL GLYCOL – CARBOMER – GLYCERYL ISOSTEARATE – POLYSORB ATE 20 – PPG-6-DECYLTETRADECETH-30 – SODIUM – LACTATE – TOCOPHEROL – XANTHAN GUMLACTATE – TOCOPHEROL – XANTHAN GUM
2. Skinceuticals Retinol 0.3, 0.5 and 1.0 cream
- Key Ingredients:Retinol, soothing complex
- Free from:Alcohol, oils, fragrance
- Full Ingredients: Aqua / Water, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Glycerin, Tranexamic Acid, Propylene Glycol, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Kojic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Allantoin, Aqua / Water / Eau, Propanediol, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Alcohol Denat., Allyl Methacrylates Crosspolymer, Dipropylene Glycol, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Retinol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Polysorbate 20, Isohexadecane, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Isopropyl Myristate, Sodium Citrate, Boswellia Serrata Gum, Polysorbate 80, Bht, Dimethiconol, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Bisabolol, Sorbitan Oleate, Citric Acid, Propyl Gallate, Xanthan Gum, Disodium Edta
3.Kiehls Retinol Skin-Renewing Daily Micro-Dose Serum
Key Ingredients: Retinol, peptide, ceramides
Free from: Alcohol, oils, fragrance
Full Ingredients: AQUA / WATER , GLYCERIN , BUTYLENE GLYCOL , PENTYLENE GLYCOL , NIACINAMIDE , CETYL ALCOHOL , ISOHEXADECANE , ISONONYL ISONONANOATE , DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE , 2-OLEAMIDO-1,3-OCTADECANEDIOL , 4-T-BUTYLCYCLOHEXANOL , ACETYL DIPEPTIDE-1 CETYL ESTER , ADENOSINE , CERAMIDE NP , HYDROXYPALMITOYL SPHINGANINE , LAUROYL LYSINE , OCTYLDODECANOL , PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRA-DI-T-BUTYL HYDROXYHYDROCINNAMATE , SODIUM CHLORIDE , SODIUM HYALURONATE. SODIUM HYDROXIDE , TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCINATE , RETINOL , TOCOPHEROL , DICAPRYLYL ETHER , AMMONIUM , POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE , BEHENYL ALCOHOL , CAPRYLYL GLYCOL , CARBOMER , CETEARYL ALCOHOL, CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE,GLYCINE SOJA OIL / SOYBEAN OIL , HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OIL / SUNFLOWER SEED OIL, HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE , LECITHIN , PHENETHYL ALCOHOL , POLOXAMER 188 , POLYCAPROLACTONE , SORBITAN LAURATE , STEARETH-100 , CI 40800 / BETA-CAROTENE , CHLORPHENESIN , PHENOXYETHANOL
Final Takeaway
Retinoid acids are powerful, transformative ingredients—but they require patience, consistency, and correct usage. When introduced slowly and supported with good skincare habits, retinoids can dramatically improve acne, aging, and overall skin quality.
⚠️ Disclaimer:
For the latest information, it is recommended to review the ingredient list printed on the packaging of the product prior to usage or consumption.
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Dr. Suruchi Vohra
Hi! I’m Dr. Suruchi Vohra, an MD Dermatologist with around 12 years of experience in Singapore and the United Arab Emirates (U.A.E.) treating skin, hair and nail conditions across all age groups and various skin tones.
